What's your favorite street in Paris


In the second arrondissement:From the Forum des Halles to Rue Réaumur, more than two dozen butchers, fish and greengrocers, cheese shops, patisseries, bakeries, caterers and flower shops line up on Rue Montorgueil. Actually, there is or was such a market street where residents can buy everything they need in terms of groceries in almost every Parisian district, but not all of them are as lively and intact as here in the 2nd arrondissement. It has been one of my favorite places in Paris for decades. The district has changed since it became largely a pedestrian zone, but the burger stalls and coffee shops have so far only been located at the very end of the street. In the middle between all the market vendors there are several nice café terraces and restaurants for lunch. In the side streets, however, things are constantly getting fancier, the Hotel Bachaumont and hip cocktail bars are already heralding gentrification and change (photos from 2003 to today).

Oyster market:In the Middle Ages, King Philippe Auguste founded the large market where today only the Forum des Halles as a huge underground shopping mall reminds of the move from the city to Rungis. Goods from the countryside once came to the city from all directions in France, and the coastal fish and oyster traders settled on Rue Montorgueil as the central access route from the north. The Société des Huîtres d’Etretat, founded in the 18th century, was located at 61–63 rue Montorgueil, while the oysters from Fécamp were sold on rue Tiquetonne. Water basins with live oysters are said to have existed here well into the 19th century. In between, inns and restaurants opened, at the beginning of the 19th century for example the “Rocher de Cancale”, which still exists today, but which has moved several times. The recipe for sole is said to have been invented here in the Norman way, and the oysters from Cancale were considered particularly fine.

No. 17: The Passage de la Reine-de-Hongrie owes its name to a market trader by the name of Julie Bêcheur or Pecheur, whose resemblance to Marie-Antoinette's mother earned her the nickname "Queen of Hungary" - and death, because she died under the guillotine during the French Revolution because she was part of the monarchy would have sympathized ...

No. 28: Aux tonneaux des Halles is one of the traditional eateries on the street. French home-style cooking and classic bistro dishes are still on the menu here - grilled marrowbones, duck breast, rack of lamb, but also the usual suspects such as burgers, steak fries and fish & chips - at prices that are quite cheap by Parisian standards under € 20.

No. 38: The one opened in 1832L'Escargot Montorgueilwith the golden snail above the entrance and a spiral staircase to the salons on the upper floor is one of the long-established Parisian restaurants that have survived many changing times. Proust and Picasso were guests here, Sarah Bernhardt and Charlie Chaplin too… Of course, snails are still on the menu - quite simply with garlic butter and parsley or quite decadently with foie gras or black truffles.

No. 45: At Fou de pâtisserieit is exciting to see whether the concept will be successful. In the pâtisserie, founded by the creators of the magazine of the same name, they do not tinker with tarts and elaborate biscuits such as macarons themselves, but rather a few great French confectioners such as Pierre Hermé or Philippe Conticini and up-and-coming pâtissiers supply the small shop with their creations every day.

No. 50: The restaurant too La Grille Montorgueil can tell stories, that's how scenes for the film were created here in the 1930s »Gueule d’Amour "filmed with Jean Gabin.

No. 51: The founding year makes the Pâtisserie Stohrer.The city's oldest patisserie was founded over 280 years ago. 1725, when Maria Leszczynska, the daughter of the Polish King Stanislas, Louis XV. married, she brought her court confectioner Nicolas Stohrer with her to Versailles. Five years later, Stohrer opened a bakery on Rue Montorgueil. The beautiful shop fittings are not quite as old, they come from the 19th century. The classics here include baba au rhum, eclairs and mille feuille pastries, I'm more interested in the quiches, salmon mousse and homemade salads.

No. 54: The one opened in 1927 Boucherie Alain Tribolet is almost a century old and counts not only local residents but also renowned chefs among her customers who appreciate the meat of pigs, cattle and lambs from the Aveyron, Limousin and Auvergne.

No. 56: The hotel was my favorite hotel for a long time, and when I had a room facing the street, I would often sit spellbound at the window and watch the hustle and bustle of the market. In keeping with the hipsters who are becoming more and more popular in the district today, it has been renovated and upgraded to four stars. Now it is no longer called the Grand Hotel de Besançon but Victoires Opéra - and I haven't stayed there since.

No. 57: That’s why I’m happy to sit in Café du Center or in Le Compas (No. 62), just as good box seats for observing everyday life in Paris. In the evening, this also includes the garbage collection, which has to do with all the banana boxes, plastic sheeting and food waste, apart from the household rubbish of the residents.

No. 78: The magnificent facade of the aforementioned Rocher de Cancale has been restored - if you like, you can still order the famous Cancale oysters directly from the bay at Mont Saint-Michel.

No. 82: Im A la Mère de Famille there are all the sweets from guimauve (mouse bacon) and caramels to pâte de fruits to orangettes, chocolate and nougat that make up French childhood memories. The listed main shop of the chocolaterie and confectionery, which opened in 1761, is located at 35 rue du Faubourg Montmartre.

No. 86 La Fermette: In the cheese shop, aficionados will also find extraordinary varieties, a smoked raclette cheese made from raw milk, truffled Brillat-Savarin, Sainte-Nitouche (Corbières) and a large selection of goat cheeses. My tip: Try the dairy products too, such as the algae butter (beurre aux algues) or the quark (fromage blanc fermier).

No. 90: Mariage Frères (as is Kusmi at 15) is a long-established Parisian tea shop, but the main business is in the Marais, and the tendency to open branches everywhere is a recent development. Mariage Frères is even represented in the three major Parisian department stores, but the selection in their own stores is greater. I always buy my favorite French breakfast by the kilo, because there is a little discount in the main shop.

No. 92: Im Little Italy it's less Parisian, the narrow bar could probably be located in New York or Rome. Just right for a plate of pasta at lunchtime.

The continuation in a northerly direction is now called Rue des Petits Carreaux.

No. 2: The Belgian chain Le Pain Quotidien is popular for breakfast because the jars with nut spread and jam are simply on the table for self-service. At lunchtime there are large salads and sandwiches, and there are other branches here too.

No. 5: The Italian delicatessen store Delitaly (one of several in Paris) offers fresh and dried pasta, olive oil from Tuscany, wine and cheese, sausage specialties and more. The fresh antipasti is great for a picnic here.

No. 9: Also the jams of theChambre aux confiturescan be found in several shops in Paris, in the Marais and my second favorite street, Rue des Martyrs, for example, but they are usually so tiny that you can easily miss them. I usually carry bitter orange, grapefruit and pear home with me, although I make good jams myself. Practical: You can try all varieties!

No. 14: About that Breizh Cafe In Saint-Malo, I have already launched a hymn of praise on my blog: Crispy galettes made from buckwheat flour can taste this good. In Paris, in addition to the branch in Rue Montorgueil, there are others in the Marais and Saint-Germain.

No. 16: Just before the end of the street is with Eric Kayser to discover yet another baker whose reputation extends far beyond Paris - he is one of the best bread bakers in the world. After opening his first shop on Rue Monge in the mid-1990s, he opened many more, including more than two dozen in Japan and a total of more than 100 in around 20 countries around the world. Some of his baking books have been translated into German on the subject of bread baking or tarts.