Can we use toothpaste as a face wash
The truth about facial cleansing
“As clean as necessary, as gentle as possible” is the purity law. But which cleaners for delicate facial skin are the best? 13 myths about a foamy topic.
1. Gel, milk, oil or foam - it doesn't matter
THAT'S NOT TRUE "Cleaning products should suit the current condition of the skin," advises the Munich specialist in dermatology, Dr. Timm Golüke. Oil-free cleansing gels or delicate mousse (a fluid that forms an airy foam when pumping) do not leave a creamy film on the skin, for example - and therefore create a subjectively clean feeling even with oily complexions. Foaming cleaners with moisturizing substances are also available for dry skin types. However, he usually feels most comfortable with moisturizing products (e.g. cleansing milk or oil). Sensitive and more mature skin can often cope well with this.
Tip: Use rich cleansers in the evening, take a lighter product in the morning or before applying make-up.
Products e.g. "Pure & Natural Cleansing Lotion" from Nivea Visage, 200 ml approx. 5 euros; "Skin Therapy Detoxi fying Cleansing Foam" from Lancaster, 150 ml approx. 15 euros
2. Don't use soap on your face
RIGHT Actually logical: we cannot expect something that makes the feet sparkling clean, also the fine skin of the face. One thing is certain: classic soap dries out the skin and unbalances the protective acid mantle with a high pH value. If you don't want to do without your bar of soap, it is better to use special washing bars made from synthetic surfactants (“syndets”) for your face. They are adjusted to the pH value of the skin and even contain valuable care substances.
Incidentally, a gentle cleansing also for the demanding décolleté and the neck!
Products e.g. "Atoderm Pain", replenishing syndet with moisturizing glycerine and shea butter from Bioderma **, 150 g approx. 5 euros; "A-Derma Dermatological Syndet" with oat milk for face and body by Pierre Fabre **, 100 g approx. 5 euros
3. The more it foams, the cleaner the skin becomes
THAT'S NOT TRUE Rule of thumb: the more lush the foam, the more chemistry there is in the product (e.g. foaming agents / surfactants). This can remove oil and moisture from the fine skin of the face and even irritate sensitive complexions. In any case, the power frother does not make it really cleaner than with other products.
4. Cleaning cloths: It couldn't be more practical
RIGHT When things really have to be done quickly: The pre-moistened cleaning wipes are ideal for pre-cleaning long-lasting make-up or when you are out and about. With a made-up face, however, you need about three cloths to thoroughly remove the make-up - in the long run, that puts a strain on your wallet.
Products e.g. "Olaz Complete Moist Cleaning Wipes" from Olaz, 20 pieces approx. 3 euros; "Norwegian Formula Moisturizing Cleansing Wipes" from Neutrogena, 25 pieces approx. 4 euros
5. Up with it - and immediately down again
THAT'S NOT TRUE The washing-active substances must be given a chance to loosen dirt, make-up and cream residues. Because only really clean skin can optimally benefit from the following care products. So take the time to rub the cleansing in briefly. "If it contains additives such as care or anti-aging ingredients, the product should act for at least ten seconds so that the substances can develop their effect," explains Dr. Timm Golüke.
Products e.g. "Mousse cleaning foam with glycolic and salicylic acid" from Dermasence **, 200 ml approx. 12 euros; "Age Perfect Cleansing Milk" with vitamin C from L’Oréal Paris, 200 ml, approx. 6 euros
6th place of all cleaners: hot water
THAT'S NOT TRUE Water that is too hot dries out fine facial skin and stimulates blood circulation. Especially with sensitive skin, couperose or rosacea, this means stress for the sensitive facial veins, which then often shimmer through even more.
7. The cleaning product must come from the same series as the cream
PARTLY TRUE Within a care series, active ingredients and their concentration are coordinated and complement each other in their effect. If you have problem skin, e.g. blemishes, couperose or sensitive skin, you should stick to a cosmetic series so as not to unnecessarily burden your complexion with constantly changing and new active ingredients. If you have normal skin, you can mix.
8. You can do without facial toner
THAT'S NOT TRUE Better not, because modern toners offer more than just refreshment. They remove the last residues of make-up, moisturize the cleansed skin, refine or mattify the complexion. And very important: "After cleansing, facial tonic stabilizes the protective acid mantle of the skin, the subsequent active ingredients in creams and lotions can develop their effect more effectively," says Dr. Golüke.
Products e.g. "Cleanance Facial Tonic" with mattifying silica from Avène **, 200 ml approx. 13 euros; "Refreshing Pomegranate Facial Toner" by Dr. Scheller, 150 ml approx. 6 euros
Cleansing for dry skin
9. Why products? There's enough water
PARTLY TRUE Normal, bare skin gets along well with clear water, at least in the morning. However, if you have to remove your make-up in the evening, water alone won't do that. Oily skin that is prone to blemishes should be cleaned thoroughly with a cleansing gel twice a day.
10. Remove make-up, clean and tone with one product - that saves time
RIGHT 2-in-1 or even 3-in-1 products cleanse the complexion, remove make-up from eyes and lips and have a toning effect like a facial toner. Simply put the light fluid on a cotton pad and rub it over your face and neck. Rinsing with water is usually not necessary. Plus point: The products do not leave a greasy film, but contain nourishing ingredients such B. Moisturizers. “These products can make cleaning easier for insensitive skin. If the skin reacts sensitively, however, you should use the usual eye makeup remover for the sensitive eye area, ”recommends Dr. Golüke.
Products e.g. "All in One Toning Cleanser" from Ahava, 250 ml approx. 23 euros; "FlorAyer Eau Puri - fiante Cleansing Water" from Ayer removes eye and lip make-up, cleanses and tones, 175 ml approx. 26 euros
11. Dry skin does not tolerate cleaning with water
THAT'S NOT TRUE Water goes clear, provided the cleansing product used is recommended for dry skin. Are there moisturizers and moisturizers such as urea or glycerine in it? Then give it a try. Cleansing oils that form a fine, moisturizing emulsion on contact with water and do not dry out the skin are also very suitable.
Products e.g. "Hydrating Rich Cream Cleanser" from Bobbi Brown with moisturizing glycerine and sodium hyaluronate, 125 ml approx. 27 euros; "Sensai Silky Purifying Cleansing Oil" from Kanebo, 150 ml approx. 47 euros
12. Organic cleaners - the extra gentle ones
RIGHT The natural surfactants (washing-active substances) used in natural cosmetics, such as coco-glucosides from coconut oil and fructose or cocamidopropyl betaine based on sugar beet, are particularly well-tolerated. “They form less foam, but they are creamier. Less foam means more care for the skin, ”says natural cosmetics expert Elfriede Dambacher. Some cleaning products even do without surfactants completely and instead use the natural dirt-binding power of almond flour, for example.
Products e.g. "Mousse Nettoyante", cleaning foam from Melvita * with surfactants from sugar beet, 50 ml approx. 13 euros; "Face wash cream" with almond flour from Dr. Hauschka, 50 ml approx. 11 euros
13. Clean and exfoliate daily in one go. That's too much
"The daily scrub can be useful for robust, very oily, keratinized skin," says Dr. Timm Golüke. "All other skin types should use a cleansing product with an exfoliating effect no more than 1 to 2 times a week." Although it often contains fewer peeling granules than a pure facial peeling, it can still irritate the skin.
Products e.g. "Biosource Gelée Nettoyante Exfoliant" with microparticles for normal and combination skin or dry skin from Biotherm, 150 ml approx. 21 euros; "DermoPurifyer washing peeling" with microparticles and lactic acid from Eucerin **, 100 ml approx. 10 euros
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